Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Poland truffle


initial pusen variety, the bones of wilhelmina joaquim who outlived 5 husbands, marching down cobbled streets to root out impulses, drives and clatters, northern pushing muscles developed over centuries without any specific purpose, like candlewhite morticians helping history take closure, bargain for themselves, knot hands together with blackened ropes, swing those smoking incense lanterns with chanting voice, change of heart, gobbling up children like fairy tale dragons whose priest and prince have not arrived for the slaying, telling hordes of camera-wielding tourists to back off as they exit the cave, where borders blur and pigs run wild in forest feasts, helping multi-millionaire foodies bind a cure, grip a grater, shave the white, then the black over top of steaming fillet, drowning in rouge her face in the mirror, over one shoulder seen but not heard.

"It's the equivalent of grating a gold ingot over your plate of tagliatelle," was the verdict of one Italian commentator. He was explaining how the worst season for white truffles in Italy since 2003 – which was fiercely hot and dry from spring to autumn – has resulted in incredible prices for tuber magnatum pico, the so-called "white gold" of the forest.
In Milan, it is changing hands for more than ¿10 (£7) per gram. With prices like that, the export market is in deep trouble. "Production is going down vertically," said Andrea Rossano the head of Tartufingros, a company based near Cuneo in the far north-west of Italy which sends truffles all over the world. "The situation is dramatic and the prices are sky-rocketing." (By Peter Popham in RomeThursday, 1 November 2007 )

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